0:17.40N 73:27.25E
Helen & Bryan write...We had been recommended a couple of anchorages
within the southern Huvadhoo atoll, but found the 2 we tried to be too
shallow where the coral reef was, and too deep outside of the reef. The
end result was to enter the small fishing harbour at Gadhdhoo after
spending nearly 5 hours trying to find a suitable anchorage in the lagoon.
Our experiences at Foamullah and information provided in a Maldives
Cruising Guide that we have on board, prepared us a little for the long
lines/ropes that criss cross the harbours set out by the often large
supply and fishing boats. We were still not fully prepared for the
crochet work that had been created across the small Gadhdhoo Harbour. We
bit the bullet and set anchor just inside the entrance in the only free
patch of line free water we could find. My nerves have been on edge ever
since as boats play dodgeball with us as they squeeze in and out of the
harbour. Fair play – the driving of these guys is exceptional, and we
have worked out that the lines are used to hold them off the harbour wall,
but also to help extricate themselves from the tight spots that they
manoeuvre into. We are all aching for a swim in crystal clear lagoon
waters after the overnight passage and the previous 2 day stay in the
harbour at Foamullah, but it looks like it is not to be, at least not for
today.
Today seems to be refuelling day. A tiny “oil tanker” about forty feet
long is making a relays of runs from a medium sized tanker anchored
outside the harbour. They are on their 3rd round trip since we arrived –
it takes about an hour to fill the fuel supply boat and we reckon another
37 round trips to fill the tanker outside the harbour with diesel – the
whole time accompanied by the sound of a large generator or pump – ahh,
the peace and tranquillity of the Maldives. We are slightly concerned
that the decks of said fuel supply boat appear to awash, sinking further
as they fuel up. They do not seem to share our concern...
We have just witnessed what may be the filming of the local Laurel and
Hardy show, where the local supply boat was exiting the harbour and caught
one of the crochet work lines which happened to have strayed across the
harbour. These supply boats are built like big floating boxes- flat sides
giving them plenty of windage. As a breeze on the beam threatened to
carry it sideways into the harbour breakwater, out went a further myriad
of lines to connect onto the floating spider web. Shouts of advice
reverberate around the harbour, and the ropes are cut free. The two
hapless rope-cutters in snorkelling gear are dragged out of the harbour on
the recently released lines while the supply boat goes full throttle to
get out without hitting the harbour wall and had no time to get them back
on board. “Cut! Filming finished for the day!”
Given the present circumstance, we may well stay just a day here before
heading further north but we are already realising that good non harbour
anchorages are going to be few and far between. But fingers crossed....at
least for now we are not short on entertainment.
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