0:50.32N 73:11.14E
Helen writes...We had planned to leave Villingili after a leisurely
breakfast, expecting the 13 mile journey to bring us to Kolumafushi just
after lunch. Over the last 5 days we have really begun to feel the
effects of the joys of sailing Maldives during the season. It has rained
every day for the last 5 days and seems to be getting heavier and more
persistent. At times, the rain comes in squalls and we have experienced
winds gusting 30 knots on several occasions. Other times, it comes just
as rain, though heavy the seas stay flat and winds calm. Our last 2 days
at Vilingili saw the gusting rain type and we ended up staying a day
longer than planned as we swung in full 360 circles in the harbour with
rain pelting down. The upside though, of course, is full water tanks and
plenty of hot showers. As we woke on the morning of our departure, there
were still some storm clouds lurking, but nothing too menacing, but
nonetheless we thought an extra coffee and a few more chapters of our
books would give sufficient time for the clouds to pass over.
After an hour we reckoned we were good to go – only to find the 360
circles we had been making had dug the anchor well and truly into the
clay-like sand beneath us. It took some manoeuvring to release it and it
was past 10.30am when we finally got underway. It wasn’t too long before
we saw storm clouds on the horizon again directly ahead of where we were
heading. Sure enough, we were soon in winds gusting 30kph and the rain
was coming down hard. The wind kicked up the sea too, normally calmer
inside the atolls, and the end result was a slow and uncomfortable passage
– our 3 hour trip turned slowly into a 6 hour one. We arrived at
Kolumafushi at nearly 4.30pm and decided to anchor as soon as possible –
and despite the fact that the chart was showing us to be on drying height
(i.e. reefs at water line) we actually found ourselves in depths ranging
from 10 to 17 metres. Great – we could anchor with all chain and no rope.
And anchor we did, only to find that the spot we had selected had a
choppy current passing at right angles to the wind making the boat roll
from side to side in a really unpleasant way. We had no choice but to
stay put as night fell and we wobbled and rolled like a belly dancers
stomach.
What a night!! Not fun – the motion was soon accompanied by those 30 knot
winds again and the rain absolutely poured down. By 6am, Bryan and I were
in the dinghy heading to the nearby harbour that we had seen the night
before, to check its suitability as a new anchorage – enough was enough.
The locals were welcoming enough and we had soon agreed on a spot we could
moor stern to the harbour wall. The locals even offered to move some
offending ropes to ease our route in.
Back to ‘Aroha’, and of course another rain shower!! Eventually we headed
into the harbour, soaked to the skin and looking like harbour rats. We
had quite a crowd gathered on the harbour wall. Many were genuinely there
to help, including one guy in the water with his snorkel mask on to make
sure we didn’t snag on any ropes. The majority were there to enjoy the
spectacle – maybe a crowd of 30 or so – nothing like an audience to put
the pressure on! Thankfully we made a reasonable job of getting in the
harbour and were soon tied on and anchored, and the boat had finally
stopped pitching and rolling. After thanking our helpers – we got down to
the important business of the day – a shower, a hot cup of coffee and some
breakfast!! Ah the joys of Maldives in the monsoon!!
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